Tuscan Fish Stew � Just Like I Barely Remember Having in Italy

I spent a few days in Florence about 30 years ago, and while I don�t remember much, I do recall a few things that surprised me, with this Tuscan Fish Stew being the most delicious. I�d had similar stews before that, but what I found so interesting was how herbs like oregano, sage, and rosemary, which I considered �meat only� seasonings were also used with seafood. The other surprises were the partial nudity on TV and in magazines, but that�s another blog post.

Anyway, it was quite the epiphany, since at the time, being fresh out of culinary school, I thought parsley, dill, and maybe tarragon were the only herbs we cooks were allowed to use for fish. Now that seems ridiculous, but at the time it was pretty heady stuff. Speaking of which, you do need to be careful, since these more resinous herbs can easily overpower a delicate dish.

As I said in the video, any tomato product will work in this, but I really like cherry tomatoes here, since they provide a fragrant freshness you just won�t get with a can or jar. You do need to strain them after blending, but the few extra minutes of work will be well worth the effort.

By the way, I hear that for this to qualify as an official Italian fish stew you need use at least five different types of seafood, which is both insane and adorable, but I thought I�d mention it just in case any old-school Tuscans are coming over. Regardless, I really do hope you give this easy and delicious fish stew a try soon. Enjoy! 

Ingredients for 2 large portions:

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 sliced green onions

4 cloves sliced garlic

1 anchovy fillet

pinch of red pepper flakes

3 cups cherry tomatoes, blended with 1 cup of clam juice, or chicken broth

12 ounces halibut or other white fish

1 pound peeled, deveined shrimp or other seafood

salt to taste

2 tablespoons freshly chopped Italian herbs (basil, parsley, oregano, and pinch of rosemary)

crusty bread for soaking up the broth

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Fresh Spinach Pasta � Easy to Do, Occasionally

It�s very easy, and inexpensive to buy pasta at the store, which is why people do it so often, maybe too often, but every once in a while, when you want something specific, making a batch of your own can be fun, and rewarding. Besides, it�s kind of nice to get compliments for the sauce and noodles for a change.

By the way, don�t let the lack of a stand mixer with pasta attachments stop you from making this. For decades, I used a cheap, hand-cracked machine, which worked just fine. You can also go completely manual, and roll the dough into thin sheets, which after a little bit of drying, can be rolled up, and sliced into whatever size noodle you want.

Just be sure to use plenty of semolina, but that does work, and may produce the most satisfying results, imperfections and all. For the best texture, be sure to only cook your fresh pasta for just about a minute, before tossing it in your hot sauce.

If you dry your pasta, like I did with my twistaroni, you�ll need to give it a few extra minutes, or until it�s just tender, depending on the exact shape. Either way, fresh or dried, I really do hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Makes 2 large or 4 small portions Fresh Spinach Pasta:

8 ounces fresh spinach (about 4 handfuls)

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

about 3 cups all-purpose flour

semolina flour, as needed for rolling and cutting

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Homemade Italian Sausage � I Was the Uncle Bill of My Slow Casing Fill

The last time I remember making sausage was with my Uncle Billy many years ago, who was doing his famous dried Italian sausage for Christmas Eve. By the way, I said �making,� but for the record I actually meant mostly watching. Anyway, this fresh version is inspired by those, and while we loved how they came out, I�m kicking myself for not saving a few to dry. That�s how Uncle Bill did them, and they�d be fried after Midnight Mass, and served on bread with roasted red peppers. 

They were incredible, and one of my earliest and most vivid food memories. If you�re going to make your own sausage on a regular basis, you�ll want to get a little more professional sausage-making set-up than I suffered through here.

It did the job, but was slow, even after I figured out what was holding me up. You can also grind meat in a food processor, and there are plenty of videos out there showing how, but then you�ll have to get a sausage stuffer. Speaking of videos, I know I said I�d try to find a link to a more detailed demo using better equipment, but just head over to YouTube and watch literally any other sausage video. Besides, the actual recipe is the hard part.

For a little nicer flavor, you can toast the fennel seeds in a dry pan just until you begin to smell them. This goes for any other whole spices you may want to grind and toss in. Also, if you can manage not to eat them right away, I think letting them dry for a day or two really deepens the flavor, and firms up the texture as well. So, with a wink heavenward to Uncle Billy, I'll close by saying, I really do hope you give these homemade Italian sausages a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for about 8 to 10 Italian Sausages:

3 pounds pork shoulder

28 grams kosher salt (1 ounce)

4 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons whole fennel seed, toasted

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon anise seed

2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon oregano

1 teaspoon marjoram

1/2 teaspoon ground mustard

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice berries

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon white sugar

2 tablespoons cold water

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Strawberry Semifreddo � Semi-Amazing

I used to tell my students to never try making classic desserts �healthier,� since your guests will always compare it to the unhealthy, and undoubtedly far superior original version. 

And yet that�s exactly what I�ve done with this strawberry semifreddo, although, in fairness, that happened accidentally while I was trying to make the recipe easier.

Traditionally, we�d make an egg custard for the base, as well as cook down our strawberry puree to concentrate the flavors; and while that does produce a fine, and much richer semifreddo, I wanted something simpler, that didn�t require any cooking. Besides saving time, and eggs, I think we also get a little cleaner, more distinct berry flavor.

However, the price we pay for those skipped steps, and the modest amount of sugar, is a less smooth and creamy texture. An extra rich, classically made semifreddo can be quite similar to ice cream, whereas this will be much firmer when frozen. That's why you really do need to let these warm up for at least 10 or 15 minutes before serving.

In the video, I described the texture as something in between strawberry ice cream and a strawberry popsicle, which reminds me, if you do have the molds, this mixture would be perfect frozen on a stick. Regardless of your delivery system, I really do hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Makes 10 Ramekins (mine were 5.5 ounces each):

1 pound fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulled

1/2 cup white sugar

3/4 cup plain Greek yogurt

zest from 1 lemon

2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar, optional

1 3/4 cups cold heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For the crust:

1 1/2 cups cookie crumbs

3 tablespoons melted butter

For the garnish:

1 1/2 cup diced or sliced strawberries

2 or 3 tablespoons white sugar, or as needed

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Creamy Ricotta Pasta Sauce � Now 100% Cream-Free!

I enjoy the taste and texture of a classic cream sauce, but what I don�t enjoy is that they tend to be very rich, and filling. I mean, come on, I�m trying to save room for the tiramisu. 

However, by using ricotta cheese, and egg, and some boiling pasta water, we can make a sauce that seems every bit as creamy, and delicious, but will still allow us to walk away from the table under our own power.

I added some pesto to mine this time, but that could have been some sun-dried tomato paste, or roasted chilies, or caramelized mushroom, or diced-up, leftover grilled veggies, or�you get the idea. The technique is really the thing to focus on here, and once perfected, you�ll simply be left trying to figure out what else to add in, or on this lovely sauce.

As I mentioned in the video, I love to top this pasta with ricotta salata. If you�ve never had it before, it�s worth a try, and not just for this dish. Ricotta salata is a great summer cheese, since it�s perfect with things like tomato salads, and grilled peaches, just to name a few. So, keep that in mind, but in the meantime, I really hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 2 large or 4 small portions:

For the sauce base:

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1 large egg

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

zest from 1 lemon

cayenne to taste

about 2/3 cup hot pasta water, plus more if needed

For the pasta:

8 ounces dry pasta, cooked 1 minute under

1/4 cup pesto, or to taste

lots of grated ricotta salata to finish

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Nipples of Venus (Capezzoli di Venere) - Keeping Abreast of the Latest in Valentine�s Day Confections

I don�t remember much about the movie, Amadeus, which isn�t surprising, since I don�t remember that much about the early eighties in general, but I do recall the famous �Nipples of Venus� scene. At the time, I wondered if that was actually a real thing, or just something made up for the movie, but since there was no Internet yet, I never found out.

Fast forward thirty-plus years later, and inspired by a viewer�s request, I finally learned that these were in fact real, and very delicious, thanks in part to star of the show, chestnuts. While not a common ingredient, chestnuts aren�t that hard to find, and worth the effort, since they work really well in this.

If you must, another nut like almond, or hazelnut, should work about the same, especially when you consider your guest, or guests, will be fairly distracted by the eye-opening appearance. Speaking of Netflix and chill, you could show Amadeus after dinner, with these served as a sexy snack during the viewing. From there, you�re on your own. Regardless of whether you serve these on Valentine�s Day or not, I still really hope you give them a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for about 24 Nipples of Venus:

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temp

1/3 cup white sugar

6 ounces dark chocolate

14 ounces whole chestnuts

pinch of salt

pinch of cayenne

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup brandy

*8 ounces white chocolate, chopped, divided

1/3 cup powdered sugar

enough milk to make a very thick paste

1 or 2 drops red food coloring

*This is more white chocolate than you need for coating, but that's how this stuff works. Just eat the rest. 

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Chicago Deep Dish Pizza, or �Pizza� As We Call It In New York

The biggest problem with Chicago-style deep dish pizza, especially for a New Yorker, is that it�s called �pizza.� I�m not sure what else it could�ve, or should�ve been called, but when you grow eating thin-crust, and all of a sudden someone hands you a plate of this, with a fork, and calls it pizza, it�s quite the shock to the system.

Having said that, for the home cook at least, this deep dish pizza is actually much easier to pull off than your classic thin-crust, which really benefits from a 700 F. pizza oven. Another advantage is that we don�t have to worry about too much, or too many toppings, which is usually the fatal flaw of a poorly made NY-style pizza.

One key, besides the buttery, cornmeal-infused crust, is to be sure your sauce is very thick, and flavorful. Some Chicago pizzerias simply use seasoned, coarsely crushed tomatoes, but I prefer using a sauce, as long as it�s reduced at least as much as you see here. Your favorite will work, but just in case you don�t have one of those, here�s a link to our official pizza sauce recipe.

I went with a pretty basic sausage and cheese version here, but you can, and probably should, add other things like peppers, mushrooms, and onions. Same goes for switching up the cheeses, but I do like the combo of fresh, and firm mozzarella. I don�t think it�s quite as good if you use all one, or the other. Regardless, I really hope you give this �pizza� a try soon. Enjoy!

For the dough (enough for a 12-inch cast iron skillet):

1 1/3 cups warm water

2 1/4 teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

2 teaspoons white sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt

1/4 cup melted butter

1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for the pan

1/2 cup cornmeal

3 3/4 cups flour, plus more as needed

For the fillings/toppings (in order of application):

4 ounces sliced provolone

8 ounces fresh mozzarella

1 pound spicy Italian sausage, removed from casing

4 ounces firm, low-moisture mozzarella

3 to 4 cups very thick pizza sauce (I made a double batch)

2 ounces (about 1 cup very finely grated) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil for the top

more cheese and parsley to garnish

- Bake at 425 F. for about 35 minutes

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Panettone (Italian Christmas Bread) � Hard to Make, Or At Least That�s What We�re Telling People

I�ve never tried to make panettone before, mostly because of how notoriously difficult it is to make, or so I was told. Turns out that wasn�t the case, unless people are factoring in the time, as this does take three days to complete, but other than that, I thought it was a pretty straightforward bread recipe.

I think bakers like us regular folks to believe everything is super hard to make, so as to elevate their standing in society; or, maybe this is difficult, and I just got lucky, but regardless, I was thrilled with how this came out.

I may add a bit more vanilla next time, and possibly a few extra tablespoons of sugar, as it wasn�t quite as sweet as I imagined, but other than using all the fruit, I don�t think I�d change much else. Speaking of the dried fruit, there are so many other things you can include, such as nuts, and chocolate chips, just in case this seems too healthy.

You'll find the panettone baking molds at places like Sur La Table, or other kitchenware stores at the mall, but they're also inexpensive and easy to find on Amazon. You'll see both in this size, and also the more traditional, tall, coffee-can shape. It might be a little late to start this, and finish by Christmas, but I would try it anyway. Just don�t let your guests know how easy it was to make, unless they�re professional bakers, then do. I really hope you give this special occasion bread a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for one 7-inch Panettone:

The night before�

For the panettone starter:

1/4 cup sourdough starter (click here for recipe)

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup cold water

NOTE: If you don�t have sourdough starter, mix 3/4 cup flour with about 1/3 cup cold water, or enough to simulate the thickness of the one seen in the video, and add a pinch (1/16 teaspoon) of yeast. Mix, cover and leave overnight, just like the one in the video.

For the dried fruit:

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup dried cherries, quartered

1/2 cup diced dried pineapple

1/4 cup rum for soaking fruit

For the dough:

1/4 cup warm water

1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) dry active yeast

2 large eggs

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoon sugar

1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest

all the starter from above

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 teaspoon fine salt

6 tablespoons softened butter

For egg wash:

1 large egg

1 tablespoon water

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Peposo dell'Impruneta - Making Bad Beef Better Since Before Columbus

Some recipes have amusing, or romantic stories for how they came to be, but this peposo isn�t one of them, unless you consider making bad quality beef taste better by covering it in black pepper, amusing or romantic.

As the story goes, the workers who made terracotta tiles in the city of Impruneta, would place this stew into clay pots, and leave it their still-hot kilns overnight, where it would be ready the next morning. Since they were often stuck using less than fresh meat, copious amounts of black peppercorn was used to make the beef palatable.

Luckily, this recipe adapts quite nicely to fresh meat, and produces one of the more uniquely flavored braised beef dishes I�ve ever had. The amount of black pepper is up to you, but even the ridiculous amount I used wasn�t overpowering. The acidity and sweetness of the reduced wine balances everything beautifully.

I hear that beef shank is the traditional cut of meat to use, but short ribs worked really well. You could even use some beef chuck, cut into two-inch pieces, but you�d have to adjust the cooking time. Having said that, forget the time, and keep cooking until a fork goes in easily. Regardless of which cut you use, or how fresh it is, I really hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 6 portions:

6 bone-in beef short ribs (about 8 to 10 ounces each)

1 tablespoon kosher salt to coat the beef

8 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 tablespoons black peppercorns, freshly crushed

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

3-4 sage leaves

3-4 small sprigs rosemary

2 cups red wine, preferably Chianti

2 bay leaves

salt to taste, to adjust sauce

- Simmer on low, covered, about 3 1/2 hours, or until fork tender. Turn occasionally.

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Pork Saltimbocca � Jumps in Your Mouth, Not in Your Hands

You have to give it to the Italians when it comes to naming recipes, and this pork saltimbocca is a perfect example. By now, you�ve probably heard that �saltimbocca� means �jumps in the mouth,� which makes perfect sense if you�ve had it before.

Maybe we should start doing this to American recipes? For example, we could rename Buffalo Chicken Wings, �Order More Beer Bones.� Let me think that one through a little more, but the point is, I love the idea of trying to describe a food�s affect in its name.

If you don�t want to mess around making the fake pork stock with the chopped up trimmings, you can still use the gelatin trick, and simply dissolve a teaspoon into a cup of chicken broth, and reduce it by half. However, the browned scraps do add extra meatiness, and this way you won�t have to feel guilty about trimming off too much meat. By the way, if you�d made our demiglace, you could skip the gelatin and add a nugget of that.

Feel free to use the more classic veal loin for this recipe, but the pork tenderloin really works beautifully. It�s just as tender, and maybe even a bit more forgiving if slightly overcooked. Which reminds me, don�t overcook this. Slightly pink pork tenderloin is completely safe, not to mention juicy and delicious. So, whether you use pork, veal, or even a chicken breast for this, I really do hope you give it a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 2 portions:

1 to 1 1/4 pound pork tenderloin, seasoned generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

about 12 sage leaves

4 large thin slices prosciutto

flour for dusting

2/3 cup white wine, or Marsala wine for a little sweeter sauce.
- Be sure season the final sauce before serving.

For the stock:

1 tablespoon butter

chopped pork trimmings

1 cup homemade or low sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup water, or as needed

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin

- simmer until reduced by half

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Rigatoni al Segreto � Dinner and a Movie

This Rigatoni al Segreto recipe was the most closely guarded secret at Gino�s, one of New York City�s most famous Italian restaurants. It was as legendary, as their signature zebra-print wallpaper, and it won awards as the best red sauce in town. 

While there were rumors that the secret ingredient was butter, no one really knew for sure. Once the restaurant closed in 2010, the recipe got out, and indeed, the butter legend was confirmed. Having never been there, I was excited to try it, but there was a big problem. Actually, a small problem. The recipe called for just a half-tablespoon of butter. Regulars knew this couldn�t be right, and so the recipe remained a mystery. Was it a typo? Was the old chef just trolling people?

We may never have known; had it not been for a documentary called, �The Missing Ingredient.� It�s a great film, but despite the name, it�s not about the butter. However, there�s a scene near the end, where the old chef makes this pasta for the filmmaker, and it shows how much butter goes in.

He made a much larger amount than the published version, but I concluded that it was a typo, and should�ve been half a stick of butter. So, not only am I recommending that you make this delicious sauce, but I also really hope you checkout the movie soon (it�s on Netflix). Enjoy!

Ingredients for four small or two large portions:

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup diced onion

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
2 or 3 cloves crushed garlic

a pinch of red pepper flakes (not in original recipe)

1 can (28 oz) San Marzano tomatoes, blended smooth
1/2 cup water to rinse out the can of tomatoes

Small handful of basil leaves, left whole or sliced just before adding

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1.5 oz by weight), plus more to top

4 tablespoons butter, cubed

*8 ounces dry rigatoni

* This recipe probably makes enough sauce to coat 12 oz of pasta, but I like lots of sauce.

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Bomba Calabrese � This Pepper Spread is the Bomb, Literally

This amazing Calabrian pepper spread is as delicious, as it is unknown. It doesn�t even have a Wikipedia page. Hey, even I have a Wikipedia page. But, despite the fact there�s not a lot of information available, I believe I got relatively close, and really love how this comes out.

As I said in the video, I like this best served simply on sliced bread, but beyond that, this is one of the most versatile condiments I know. You can toss it with pasta; add it to a sandwich; fill an omelet; top a pizza; use it like a salsa on grilled fish; spice up a potato salad; as well as create the world�s best deviled eggs. Actually, I�ve never made deviled eggs with it, but I know it�d be the best.

I was intentionally vague with the cooking times and temperatures. Basically, once the onion, eggplant, and mushroom mixture is saut�ed, you add your peppers, and simply cook until everything is soft and tender, no matter how long it takes. You�ll probably stay between medium and medium high heat, but be prepared to adjust as need be. This is not something we want browning in the pan, before everything is cooked.

Another key is waiting for this to cool down completely, before you finalize the seasonings. We always want to adjust a recipe at the same temperature it�s going to be served at, since that just makes sense. Another thing that makes sense, and a lot of sense, is you giving this bomba Calabrese a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients to make about 4 cups Bomba Calabrese:

3/4 cup olive oil, divided

1/2 yellow onion

1 small eggplant

4-5 large button mushrooms

2 pounds hot cherry peppers (or about 1 pound after trimming)

1 pound sweet red bell peppers (or about 12 ounces after trimming)

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 cup white wine vinegar, or to taste

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Proper Pesto

There are lots of recipes people claim taste better if made by hand, but there�s no easier case to prove than pesto. That the name means, �to crush,� should tell you something, and while this method does take considerably more physical effort, when you taste this you�ll forget every pestle-pounding minute.

The intensity of the flavors is beyond compare, and as if by some kind of magic, this gorgeous spread develops an addictive spiciness. You can taste each ingredient, and yet when smashed together, new and wonderful flavors are released. If you�re in the market, I recommend the marble mortar seen herein, as long as the inside has some texture to it. If it seems smooth and glassy, keep looking.

Of course, you can play around with the ratios of the five ingredients, and easily adjust this to your tastes, but no matter how they�re combined, taking the time to crush them by hand is well worth the effort. I hope you give this fresh basil pesto a try soon. Enjoy!

4 cloves garlic peeled

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 large bunch basil (about 4-5 ounces)

3 tablespoons pine nuts

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated on microplace (about 1 1/2 cups unpacked)

1/2 cup mild extra virgin olive oil

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Calamari Marinara � Would You Like That In 45 Seconds or 45 Minutes?

Calamari is affordable, delicious, and sustainable, yet many cooks shy away from it, since it has a reputation for being tricky to work with. I should�ve said �unfair reputation,� because while it�s true calamari can end up with a rubbery texture if overcooked, there�s a very simple way to avoid this� by really overcooking it.

When it comes to calamari, it needs to be cooked in either 45 seconds, or 45 minutes, and nothing in between. If you sear it in a pan, or poach it in a sauce for a very brief time, you should get something nice and tender. However, after just a few extra minutes, the squid gets chewy.

Unfortunately, this is how most calamari is served, since it is easy to overcook, even for a professional. But, if we gently simmer for about 45-minutes total, something amazing happens. The calamari loses that rubbery texture, and becomes tender once again.

I also think it takes on more a meaty flavor, which I love, especially when using this to sauce pasta. So, if you�ve wanted to try cooking calamari, but were afraid of over-cooking it, I really hope you give this easy sauce a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 4 portions:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1  yellow onion, sliced thin

4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 anchovy fillet

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 Serrano chili pepper sliced thin

1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more if needed

1/2 cup drinkable white wine

1 cup clam juice

6 cups crushed or pur�ed Italian plum tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

2 pounds frozen calamari tubes and tentacles, thawed, sliced into half-inch pieces

1/4 cup freshly chopped Italian parsley

freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, optional

1 pound dry pasta

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